Many people familiar with marijuana have asked about Kiff Pellets. They want to know what they are and how they are different from traditional Hashish.
Kiff is essentially a highly concentrated form of marijuana consisting of loose, dried resin glands or trichomes from the cannabis plant. Kiff is also referred to as Kif, Kef, Keef, Jeef , Keethan or kief. Kiff is usually made by breaking trichomes off the buds, leafs, or stems of the marijuana plant through the use of a grinder or a kiefing screen.
The word Kiff, is derived from the Arabic word, Kiff, which means “mood”. Kiff, like hashish contains a higher concentration of desired psychoactive ingredients than the ordinary marijuana buds from which it is derived.
Kiff pellets are made by breaking off loose trichomes from collections of crushed dried buds. Trichomes are small hair particles that grow off of the buds, stems, and leaves of the marijuana plant. When these trichomes are broken off of the plant they form a fine gold colored powder. One way to collect the trichomes is to rub a marijuana bud against a fine screen. This causes the trichomes to break off from the bud. These trichomes have a much higher potency than the rest of the marijuana bud.
They make kief-boxes, kief-catchers, or shaker boxes which are specially designed containers with screens in the bottom used to make kiff powder. Cannabis buds can be stored in these containers and over time the Kiff powder will accumulate in a small compartment beneath the screen on the bottom of the box where it can be collected for later use.
Kiff powder can be rolled into joints or smoked in pipes. Kiff powder can be smoked alone or it can be mixed with marijuana buds and tobacco. It can also be pressed into pellets. These compressed pellets have an extremely high content of THC.
Many commercial sites out there sell those turnkey PC grow systems for as much as $599.99. I have always thought that these prices are rather ridiculous. The people selling these units are probably investing $124.99 building each system and taking in $450.00 in profit. People are buying them so it’s definitely not a bad business model.
You could do it for far less than $128.00 and have similar results. Let’s try to build a system for under $20.00.
It’s fairly easy to find a really old computer case that someone does not want for free. I had no trouble finding one. After removing a few screws and a few other modifications I had a perfect start for a grow box. I then picked up some styrofoam insulation which I used to line the box on all 4 sides. I also picked up a cheap extension cord, a lamptimer, and a light bulb socket plug adapter which allows me to plug the light bulb directly into the extension cord. I cut a small hole in the top for ventilation. Within 20 minutes my system was practically completed.
I added a regular incandescent light bulb that I obtained from an old lamp to add additional light and some heat to the inside of the grow box. This will improve the results since plants respond so well to a slightly warmer environment. I added a small glass of water to add a slight level of humidity to the inside of the case which the heat from the traditional light bulb would slowly cause to evaporate.
The completed grow system is shown below.
Using this system I was able to get good results, probably not much different than what I would see using the $599.99 system at the top of this post. The biggest difference is that my system uses potting soil and their system is totally hydroponic. However, I was able to get good results and saw my plant flower in around a week. They were strawberry plants of course.
The break down of the total cost to build this system is shown below. If you do not count the materials that can easily be found for free, such as the old PC case and the lamp then your costs will be around $19.75!
The word, Hydroponics, originated from the Greek words “hydro” meaning water and “ponics” meaning labor. The practice has existed for thousands of years. Hydroponic plants can be traced back to the “Hanging Gardens of Babylon” in 600 BC.
Hydroponics is basically growing plants in a liquid based medium using water and various nutrient solutions, but no soil. The root system is able to grow and support the plant in various growing mediums such as gravel or rockwool. These mediums allow the roots to gain exposure to the growing solution and provide support for the plants.
The roots are able to absorb the nutrient solution through the growing medium. Most plants are able to grow in this manner. Plants grown hydroponically tend to grow faster and are stronger than plants grown in conventional soil. Using a hydroponic delivery method you can provide a plant with the ideal amounts of the nutrients that it needs.
Many people disagree over whether growing plants in hydro or soil produces the best quality buds. Hydro is definitely the best for producing plants the quickest with the largest yields using the least amount of space, however many people feel that more potent, better tasting buds can be obtained by growing in soil. With soil you do not need the harsh chemicals that you would use with hydro and this might contribute to a cleaner more naturally organic plant.
Last week California Supreme Court ruled that employers can fire workers found to have used medical marijuana even if it was legally recommended by a doctor.
This particular case went to the state Supreme Court after a Sacramento based telecommunications company, Ragingwire Inc., fired Gary Ross for failing a company-ordered drug test. Gary argued that he held a medical marijuana card which authorizes him to legally use marijuana to treat a back injury subtained while serving in the airforce. However, the company still decided to fire him.
Raging Wire Inc. argued that it rightly fired Ross because all marijuana use is illegal under federal law, which does not recognize the medical marijuana laws of California or the 11 other states.
The court ruled that the so-called Compassionate Use Act (Prop 215) passed by California in 1996 has nothing to do with employment laws.
Justice Kathryn Werdegar stated, “Under California law, an employer may require preemployment drug tests and take illegal drug use into consideration in making employment decisions.”
Some companies argue that they could lose federal contracts and grants if they allow employees to smoke marijuana, even for medicinal purposes.
Ross on the other hand argued that medical marijuana users should receive the same workplace protection from discipline that employees with valid painkiller prescriptions do.
The nonprofit marijuana advocacy group Americans for Safe Access, which represents Ross, estimates that 300,000 Americans use medical marijuana. The Oakland-based group said it has received hundreds of employee discrimination complaints in California since it began tracking the issue in 2005. The group will now focus on getting the Legislature to pass a law protecting medical marijuana users in the work place.
Another California Supreme Court Judge, Justice Joyce Kennard said the ruling was “conspicuously lacking in compassion” and “disrespects” the California medical marijuana law. She said employers should be barred from firing workers who use medical marijuana if they perform their jobs adequately.
The American Medical Association advocates keeping marijuana classified as a tightly controlled and dangerous drug that should not be legalized until more research is done.
Marijuana Detection Time Based on Usage
Usage at 1 time only ——————— 5-8 days
Usage at 2-4 times per month ———– 11-18 days
Usage at 2-4 times week —————- 23-35 days
Usage at 5-6 times per week ———— 33-48 days
Daily Usage —————————– 49-63 days
Beating Urine Tests for Marijuana
There are commercial and household detox products out there that will help you pass urine tests for marijuana. Some people object to using these commercial products because they charge high prices when large volumes of water alone tends to work for most people.
Ignore the money-back guarantees on these commercial detox products. These companys sell thousands of these kits through advertising in High Times, they are really inexpensive to produce, and they have a large profit margin. Thus a few returns from a couple of motivated users are rather insignificant to them. Even GoldenSeal could get away with offering a money back guarantee because the large volume of water that you are required to drink alone causes most people to pass. Also some companys actually refuse to uphold this guarantee. A guy in Sonoma County who tested positive sent the lab results back, only to be told by the company that marijuana is illegal. He was never compensated for buying a failing product.
You can try a detox product, but you may be able to achieve the same results by drinking 8 glasses of water before the test along with vitamin B and creatine to make your urine color right. However, I would not risk it and I would try to use someone else’s urine kept warm with a pocket glove or boot warmer pouch.
Laboratories know how easy it is to tamper with urine samples and thus alter the results. Therefore Labs often test the urine to find out if the sample is legitimate. Below are a list of things that the laboratory will look for when testing your urine.
Color: If a urine sample looks clear, the lab will suspect that it’s watered down. They can’t report it as positive, but they may reject the sample and inform your employer that you tried to beat the test. If this happens, the sample might as well be positive, because you won’t get hired. Take a vitamin B complex to keep the color of your urine yellow.
Temperature: Urine should be between 91 and 97 degrees. NIDA certified labs will verify temperature. If it is not within this range, they will suspect that you added water to the cup, or used someone else’s urine. Disposable pocket hand warmers (sold in department stores) will keep a urine sample warm, provided that the urine is held in a condom or douche bag.
Creatinine: Creatinine is a substance produced by vertebrates, and it shows up in urine. If someone substitutes their urine with something other than urine, like Mountain Dew, they will test negative for creatine. The test will most likely fail because Mountain Dew contains zero creatinine, and labs test creatinine levels to ensure that the sample is valid. Creatinine levels drop below normal when people dilute their urine. This tests to ensure that the subject didn’t drink unusual amounts of water. An *accurate* creatinine “clearance” test would require a urine and blood test 24 hours before the drug test to determine the normal creatinine level for that individual. This is almost never done. You should still be cautious because they do often use the inaccurate method of comparing your creatinine level during the drug test to an average. Eating foods rich in protein like red meat will slightly increase creatinine levels. There is no significant variation between vegatarians and armavors, so the effect protein has is little. Sexual activity also raises creatinine levels. I doubt sexual activity influences creatinine level with much significance. However, a vegetarian that doesn’t have much sex should be concerned. People who are drug-free sometimes lose their jobs for having too low of a creatinine level. You can also buy creatine monohydrate to raise your creatine levels.
pH: pH is often changed when people spike their sample with household products. Use caution when doping urine, pH is usually tested.
Producing Clean Urine
THC is fat soluble, and it gets stored in your fat cells. Cleaning it out of your lipid tissue is very difficult. Many herbal products claim to clean out your system, yet they do nothing to remove THC byproducts from fat cells.
A study was done in Germany in 1993 on 50 of the most common herbs used by people trying to pass drug tests. All 50 herbs failed to cause a negative test result on a person who uses marijuana. Unfortunately, these rumors will not die. Goldenseal (plant) is useless; yet it’s the most common thing for people to use. The only way to extract THC from fat cells is to exercise. Fat cells secrete fat with THC metabolites at a constant rate, regardless of what herbs you consume. You may be able to temporarily clean THC metabolites from your bloodstream, or dilute your fluids to yield a larger urine/THC ratio, but your bloodstream will continue collecting THC metabolites from fat. Your urine will continue collecting THC metabolites from your bloodstream.
Dilution: Hyper saturating your body with fluids will dilute metabolites possibly below the 50 ng/mL threshold, depending on your metabolism. Be aware that creatinine levels are often tested, and will show that the sample has been diluted. Diluting your sample will also produce clear urine, with virtually no yellow color. They will assume that you’ve diluted your sample, and they may reject your sample on the basis of color alone. It’s only necessary to start drinking just before the test. Those who drown themselves in fluid days before a test are only causing unnecessary discomfort. Those who stay up all night drinking water do not have any better chance than one who drinks heavily first thing in the morning. Get up early if the test is early, but do not lose sleep over a test that’s given in the daytime.
Water: Drink at least eight hefty glasses of fluid (preferably water) just prior to the test. Many people start drinking water several days before the test; which is useless. Water does *not* clean any THC metabolites out of your system because THC is not water soluble. Water only dilutes urine temporarily. Do not over do it; you can get water intoxication. People can actually overdose and even die from water intoxication. It’s very hard to do, and you’ll vomit before anything gets serious.
Creatinine level: Eating red meat will boost creatinine levels. If you eat a lot of red meat for the 3 days prior to the test, your creatinine level will be normal, and the lab won’t know that you’ve diluted your urine sample.
Vitamin B: Color your sample yellow by taking 50 to 100 milligrams of vitamin B. Many vitamins will work, but B-2 or B-12 (found in B-complex vitamins) are the most effective, though some will argue that vitamin C is better. This will also help if you plan to dope your sample (section 7). This does not guarantee that dilution will work. Diluted samples have been red-flagged when specific gravity and creatinine levels are tested and below normal. If you’re taking vitamins at the last minute, check to see if they’re time release. If so, crush it up and consume the powder. Coloring your urine isn’t all that important because it’s normal for people to have clear urine even when they don’t consume much fluid.
Diuretics: Diuretics make people urinate frequently. Coffee, cranberry juice, beer, iced tea, herbal tea, and Pepsi are all good diuretics. Grapes are known to be very good diuretics. Diuretics without caffeine or alcohol are recommended because caffeine and alcohol have negative side effects. Cranberry juice is also the cheapest. Avoid salts. Herbal diuretics do better than home remedies like juices. How to Give a Clean Sample
Do NOT take the test using the urine from your first urination of the day. It’s the dirtiest, and can be heavily filled with metabolites. Urinate a couple of times before giving a test sample. Also, don’t give the beginning or end of the stream. Piss in the toilet, then quickly stop and go in the cup. Stop, and shift back to the toilet for the last portion. Only give a midstream sample. Just be sure to give the proper amount.
Exercise: Athletes have a big advantage over normal civilians. When fat is burned, THC byproducts are released into the blood. This is the only way to get THC metabolites out of lipid tissue. Due to an athletes high metabolic rate, THC moves through an athletes system significantly faster. Exercising between drug tests will clean THC metabolites from the system at a faster rate, thus lowering the detection period. It is important to stop burning fat cells near test time. On test day, it doesn’t matter what’s in your lipid tissue. What’s in your blood and urine does matter. Exercise increases the amount of THC metabolites in the urine; so quit exercising a week before the test. Be lazy, and eat big. This will put the body in an anabolic fat-storing stage. At this point, the “buried” THC metabolites won’t escape and go the the urine.
Hair Testing
When THC metabolites are in the blood, they go through the blood vessels in the head, and get filtered through the hair. THC metabolites remain in the hair as a permanent record. The hair test costs several hundred dollars ($150-$300) and is rarely given because urinalysis is cheaper (approximately $65) and more accurate. (The hair test equipment and setup goes for over a million). According to Jeff Nightbyrd, hair tests are “widely used in the casino industry.” They cut 50 strands of hair from the scalp, and send it in to the testing lab where they liquefy it. “A hair sample is disolved in a series of solvents which extract the drug metabolites and then are analyzed via GC/MS.” It can take several hours to days just to extract metabolites. Average hair grows 1/4 inch per month. Typically they just use hair one and a half inches from the scalp; though some labs will take enough to test for up to 3 years. The liquid is run through the most sensitive GC/MS machines available, and can detect as little as 1 ng/mL! The hair test discriminates in that detection is easier in dark hair. Colored people may be discriminated against further because melanin is in their hair, which can be mistaken for THC. However, there is conflicting data as to whether melanin can be detected as THC. Psychemedics Corporation has a PDT90 kit for $75. This home test kit is for parents that want to chop off a lock of their child’s hair to find out what drugs s/he is using. Kids- lock your bedroom doors at night if your parents don’t trust your judgment on the drug issue.
Beating the hair test is extremely hard, and there are false positives. Bleaching or dying your hair is rumored to work, but it doesn’t. I imagine you can shave every hair on your body and claim that you’re a swimmer. According to NORML, Aloe Rid by Nexus is a shampoo that will aid in testing negative. Aloe Rid is available only in salons. Healthy Hair, from Sampson Health Products, is another shampoo designed to beat the hair test. Healthy Hair is sold in retail stores throughout Las Vegas. Keith Thrash from Sampson Health Products reccommends precleansing with Aloe Rid prior to using Healthy Hair. Healthy Hair is used in the morning and before going to bed. Each session takes 20 minutes. According to Steve at Sampson Health Products, two out of a thousand people failed the hair test when using Healthy Hair. Byrd Labs is currently developing a shampoo to defeat the hair test. Some have suggested treating hair with oil because THC is oil based and oil soluble. However, there is no proven way to beat the hair test, so it’s all heresay and guessing at this point. (If anyone has any success with the shampoos or the swimmer excuse, please let me know). Swimming and washing your hair removes toxins, and Keith Thrash recommends doing both as much as possible. Fortunately, the hair test cannot be used alone as evidence because there are no forensic standards. It can only be used when substantiated by other evidence. Also, there are no intoxication standards.
I believe if you tested positive for the hair test that you would probably have a good chance of fighting it. BlockBuster Video uses the most up-to-date equipment, and passing such a test can be difficult. It takes several months of precleansing to beat the tests given by Psychemedics.
Most marijuana growers raise plants solely to harvest the buds. They end up throwing away the leaves, stems, seeds, and other plant matter which is a waste because they could be using this discarded plant material to produce hashish. Most growers don’t bother with making hashish because they either do not know how or they think that the process is way too difficult. However, the process of making hashish is very easy.
What is Hashish?
Hashish (commonly called Hash) is a potent solid form of cannabis made by collecting and processing the buds, leaves, stems, and seeds of the marijuana plant to extract the trichomes and then pressing this material into a solid mass.
Plant tricohomes are fine outgrowths and appendages (hair like structures) that can be used to produce resin. Hashish is basically a compressed collection of plant trichomes that are found on the female marijuana plant which are a really rich form of THC. This strong source of THC often goes wasted because the majority of growers only raise plants for the buds and throw out the leaves, stems, seeds, and other plant matter rather than process this into hash.
These growers need to stop wasting these parts of the plant and use them to make hash which can be sold for an additional profit.
Most of the hashish being sold commercially (except for the California dispensaries) is really low quality and is often cut and mixed with other substances. It’s hard to cut marijuana buds with anything else because of the structure of the bud, however its really easy to cut hashish with almost anything without the person smoking it knowing. Thus the only way to get high quality hash in most parts of the world is to make your own.
I would never buy hashish from anywhere except from a medicinal grower or from a medicinal marijuana dispensary both of which can ensure the quality of their products. With anyone else you never know what you are actually getting.
How to Make Hash
There are several different methods for making hash. The “flat screen” method and the “blender” method are the easiest and least expensive, however using these methods will mean that the final product will be less pure and contain more contaminates than the “tumbler” or the “bubble bag” methods, which both require that you have special equipment.
Get your Plant Materials
Collect the leaves, trimmings, stems, less desirable buds, and other plant material from your most recent harvest. Don’t alter or contaminate the plant materials, keep it in tact. Do not try to crush or grind the plant material before the process it will only damage the trichomes and introduce additional contaminates. This plant material should be dry, but not crumbling apart.
The Flat Screen Method
The flat screen method removes the plant trichomes by rubbing the plant material over a fine steel or silk screen. This is a rather simple process, but the quality of the hash produced will highly depend on your patience and the time that you dedicate to this process. The principal behind the flat scren method is that the trichome heads will rub off the plant and pass the screen, but the rest of the plant matter will be left behind.
Silk screens can be purchased from your local craft store for $10-20 and steel screens can be purchased from your local hardware store or Home Depot for the same price. Look for screens which have between 125-150 lines per inch.
You will also need a mirror or a piece of glass to collect the trichomes on after they pass through this screen and a paint scraper or something similar to push the plant material across the screen.
The plant matter used for flat screening should be dry, but bone dry. If the material is crumbling than some of the regular plant matter will pass through the screen and contaminate the trichomes.
First put the screen on top of the mirror or piece of glass and then place the plant material on the screen. Using the paint scraper, gently push the plant material back and forth across the screen. Using minimum pressure on the material will produce the best hash. The first layer of powder that passes through the screen will be the most pure and potent.
The plant matter must be in contact with the screen to remove the trichomes, thus its almost impossible to get pure hash through the flat screen method. The hash produced using this method usually also contains small bits of plant matter. The Flat Screen method generally contains more contaminates than any other method, however its the easiest and cheapest way to make hash.
Tumbler Method
There are tumbler machines designed to remove trichomes from plant matter by spinning them inside of a steel drum with a round screen that the plant material is tumbled against. It’s a machine that uses the same principal as flat screening, except the machine tumbles the matter instead of rubbing it. This ensures a higher quality of trichomes which have less contaminates than the regular flat screening method.
The most common plant tumbler machines are the Pollinator or the Scuffbox.
With this method, lightly fill the drum with dry plant materials (remember not too dry) and turn the machine on low. Only let the matter run in the machine for a few minutes to prevent the material from breaking apart and the plant matter from mixing with the trichomes. The longer that the material runs through the machine the more likely you are to get contaminates.
You can collect the hash-powder and then run the machine again to produce a lower grade of hash. Depending on the quality and quantity of original material, you can do this a few times, with each grade containing more contaminates.
If your skuff contains a lot of larger leaves, you may want to put a rubber ball into the drum after the first collection to help rub the surface against the screen. The Blender Method
Unlike the Flat Screen and the Tumbler methods which uses screens to filter out the trichomes, the blender method uses the principal that the resin trichomes are heavier than water, while the other plant material is lighter than water.
The blender method uses ice cold water and shaking to dislodge the trichomes from the plant matter. Ice cold water makes the trichomes brittle, causing the resin to solidify and making it easy to snap off from the rest of the plant mater. The trichomes are heavier than water so they will sink to the bottom of the blender, while the rest of the plant material floats to the top.
To make hash using the blender method you will need a blender, ice cubes, a reusable metal coffee filter or silk coffee filter, a large glass jar and paper coffee filters.
Fill the blender about half-way with plant matter, then cover with cold water and add a tray of ice cubes. Blend for 45 seconds to a minute – the mixture will become green and frothy, like a smoothie. Pour this mix through the metal coffee filter into your glass jar. Run more water through the filter to make sure you haven’t missed any trichomes.
Once your jar is full, put it in the fridge to settle for a minimum of 30 minutes. You should be able to see a white colored substance settling on the bottom of your container – those are the trichomes. Carefully, so you do not disturb the trichomes, pour off or siphon off about two-thirds of the green water.
If you have more plant matter to process, do it now and filter into the container you just drained. Return to the fridge, allow to settle and siphon again. When you have processed all your plant matter, add a few ice cubes to the container and let settle one last time.
If you want to increase the purity of your product you can carefully put this settled mixture back into the blender for a final mix and separation. This may or may not be necessary depending on your preference.
Pour the final mix of water and trichomes through a paper coffee filter. The water will pass through the paper but the glands will not. Drain well and allow to dry. You now have dried resin glands ready to be pressed into hash.
The Bubble Hash Method
The ice-water filtration technique has quickly become a very popular way to make hash. This method combines the best of the screen and blender methods, this method uses ice-water to make the trichomes brittle and agitation to knock the heads off and straining the mix through filters for increased purity.
Hash made in this fashion is sometimes called “bubble hash” - because it is so pure that it actuall bubbles when heated! This is a sign that the hash you are smoking is very pure. Well-made bubble hash is a very potent product – a tiny piece will produce enough billows of smoke to get a small crowd high.
The two main commercial ice-water filtration systems available are “Bubble Bags” from Fresh Headies and the Ice-o-lator, another product developed by Mila. Both operate on the same principle of using cold water and filtering bags to isolate trichomes. You can also make your own kit by acquiring mesh of the appropriate sizes and carefully sowing it into bags of strong material.
In order to make bubble hash you will need a kit with filtering bags, two impeccably clean five gallon pails and a hand mixer. The exact method can vary depending on which system you’re using, but the essentials are the same. The Ice-o-lator uses two filters to screen out contaminates, leaving the trichomes caught in the second filter. The bubble bag kits from Fresh Headies contain either three or six colour–coded bags, and allow you to simultaneously make different grades of hash.
To start with a bubblebag kit, place your plant matter into one of your five gallon buckets. Use up to 100 grams of dry plant matter, or double that weight if it’s fresh or wet.
Because ice makes the trichomes brittle, add plenty - at least six ice cube trays. Then fill up the bucket with cold water. Leave a few inches at the top so you don’t splash too much when mixing.
Use the hand mixer to blend continuously for 15 minutes to one hour or more. Mixing longer will produce a higher yield that will be slightly less potent. The mixture will become green and frothy. You should take breaks every so often to let the mixture settle.
When done mixing, allow the mixture to settle for at least 30 minutes. If the ice has melted, add more. If possible, put the pail in the freezer, or outside if you live in a cold climate – you want that water to stay cold!
Now put your “work bag” into your second bucket. This bag should have a screen size between 200 and 250 microns, the one from Fresh Headies is 220. Pour your frothy green mix into the work bag in the second bucket. Slowly lift out the bag and squeeze out the water. Set aside the work bag with the green matter for a second rinse.
Now you have a bucket full of green water which contains many trichomes, as well as other contaminants. Everything that was smaller than 220 microns is in that water.
Arrange the other bags inside of the now empty bucket. Put the bag with the finest mesh in the bucket first, then place the bags with larger screen sizes inside the first one. With the Fresh Headies three bag kit you put the 25 micron bag in first and the 73 micron bag inside of it. You’ll get fine hash if you just use one bag with a screen size around 73 microns.
Now you carefully pour the green water into the bucket with the bags. Then you slowly lift out each bag in succession, being sure to give them time to drain. If you’re using a 25 micron bag it will drain very slowly – be patient. Squeeze out the excess water from each bag after it is drained.
You will now have a brownish sludge at the bottom of the bags. Remove it with a credit card or spoon to a plastic bag. Blot the sludge with a towel to remove excess moisture, and let it dry out for at least 12 hours. You might want to wait up to a week for it to fully dry and cure, if you are that patient! Be sure that your product is entirely dried so as to avoid mold problems later on.
You will get less product from the 25 micron bag, but it will have a unique and potent affect when consumed. Bubble bag creator “Bubble Man” speculates that these are the smaller trichome heads – not immature, but simply the smaller heads associated with Sativa strains. He argues that Indica strains have larger trichome heads, and that Sativa strains have smaller heads on longer stalks. Crosses between these two types doesn’t produce medium sized trichomes, but rather a mix of the large and small. This theory seems to be borne out by results, but much more research needs to be done.
Now go back and give the green matter in the work bag a second rinse, to be sure that you get out every last trichome!
The yield from 200 grams of skuff is around 6 to 20 grams, with an average yield around 10 grams. The quantity of hash produced depends in large part upon the quality of your original material. The Pressing Process
The previous four techniques leave you with a product that, once dried, looks similar to sand. This “sand” is actually a collection of trichome heads and stalks. This powder is a potent cannabis extract, this raw product is sometimes jokingly referred to as “hippy crack.”
The final step to making hash is to press this powder into a solid mass. The powder should be completely dry before pressing. If it stored damp it can become moldy, ruining the product. So be sure it is totally dry! If you put it into the freezer for a while the water inside will coagulate on the surface as ice and can then be blotted off.
To press the powder you will need heavy plastic wrap, cardboard, newspaper, a frying pan, a heavy rolling pin and a tile or marble surface for rolling.
Cut the cardboard to the size of the hash bar that you want to make. Make a bag around the cardboard, then remove cardboard. Fill the bag with dry trichomes, seal and wrap in several layers of wet newspaper. Place bundle in frying pan on very low setting. Turn your bar often and unwrap to check if all the trichomes are melted. Don’t let the newspapers dry out or catch on fire!
Once melted, remove from frying pan, leave wrapped in newspaper, and transfer to the rolling surface. Using the rolling pin, press and roll from the center out. Continue doing this all the way around your bar for 30 to 45 minutes.
Unwrap newspaper and allow to cool in freezer for at least one hour. Then unwrap from your plastic. You now have some awesome hash!
Advantages with Hash
Hash can be either smoked or eaten. It can be more potent than most strains of marijuana and can give you a better, cleaner high than smoking bud.
Hash is easier to conceal and hide than regular marijuana and can be discuised as something else.
Hash is harder to come by and less common than marijuana which makes it in higher demand and more valuable that regular marijuana.
Hash allows you to use parts of the harvested plants which are normally thrown away so this can make you more money that selling just the buds alone and provide you with more products to smoke.
Hash lasts longer and has a much longer shelf life than regular buds. An oily block of hash has a very long shelf life and can be wrapped in polythene so that it will last for years!
To understand the general principles behind breeding different strains of cannabis you first need to be familiar with some basic terms related to plant genetics. A plant’s genotype is the genetic code and chromosomal make up of a specific plant. A plant’s phenotype is the size, shape, structure, and overall appearance of the plant. The genotype (the actual genetic code of a particular marijuana strain) and it’s growing environment are what determines the phenotype (the size and potency of the buds produced).
In other to maximize the amount of bud produced by a marijuana plant and its potency you must choose the proper strain and know the best growing environment for this particular strain. A common misnomer is that all marijuana strains will thrive in the same growing environment. This is not true. Different strains grow better at different temperatures, some strains require more light, water, or nutrients than other strains. Two individual plants of the exact same strain can grow vastly different when raised in different environments.
The available nutrients, hours of sunlight, and other growing conditions are referred to as environmental triggers.
Indoor vs Outdoor
With growing cannabis, there is a distinct difference between indoor and outdoor growing environments.
Indoor growing enviroments allow you to have better control of the environment factors. You can easily raise or lower the temperature, humidity, air circulation, or the amount of water your plant receives. You can also control the amount and length of time that a plant receives light and thus shorten or lengthen the growth period. The buds produced from indoor plants are usually more densely packed, more potent, and higher quality than buds grown outdoors.
Outdoor growing environments usually allow you to grow more plants which are often larger in size than comparable indoor plants. However the buds produced by these plants tend to be less potent.
Three Subspecies
There are three separate subspecies of the genus Cannabis known as Sativa, Indica and Ruderalis.
Cannabis Sativa are characterized by long thin flowers and spiky leaves. They originate from equatorial regions where the growing season is hotter. They are not generally used for outdoor cultivation in colder climates, although some hybrids can produce good yields in such conditions. Cannabis sativas have more of a high than Cannabis indica buds.
Cannabis Indica originated in the Hindu-kush areas of Central Asia, where the weather is changeable and growing conditions can be harsh. Indica plants are generally much shorter than Sativa plants, only about three to five feet tall. They have fewer and shorter branches than Sativa, the longer of which are lower on the plant, with much wider leaflets. They also mature earlier and more rapidly than Sativa. Cannabis indica varieties are ideal for indoor and outdoor cultivation in cooler climates.
Cannabis Ruderalis is a variety of cannabis that grows wild in parts of Eastern Europe and Russia. It is characterized by its early flowering, with some plants starting irrespective of the photo-period. Ruderalis are the shortest, least bushy, and fastest maturing of the three. Cannabis ruderalis is ideal for cultivation in cooler climates and areas where conditions are harsh. There are Dutch hybrid varieties available that combine Cannabis ruderalis and Cannabis indica.
The end of the localized strainsPrior to the late 1960’s, virtually all cannabis plants were grown outdoors. The marijuana strains available in a particular geographic location were dictated by which strains grew well in that particular climate or environment. So you were limited to the strains which grew well in your particular area. Different places produced different types of buds that were unique and their quality varied depending on the region. Some areas produced better buds than others.
The introduction of indoor growing systems have allowed growers to control their growing environment regardless of their local climate or outdoor conditions. This has allowed many common and popular strains of marijuana to be grown worldwide using the same types of indoor growing systems. People are now able to transfer and grow the exact same strains of marijuana seeds or clones in different climatic locations around the world.
Today the quality of the buds available in a particular area are more based on the laws regarding the cultivation of marijuana than the outdoor growing environments. However, geographic locations that are optimal for outdoor cultivation usually still have a larger supply of high quality buds. For example, areas such as Humboldt or Mendocino counties in Northern California have more good bud than the rural counties surrounding Los Angeles which are much less optimal places to grow marijuana outdoors. States with higher cool mountainous forests almost always have better buds than lower elevation states with hotter climates.
The road to blandness
As cloning and HID lighting became popular, it became fairly clear that it is really difficult to produce commercial size yields by growing cloned Sativa plants indoors. These Sativa varieties grow much better outdoors on a really large field sized crop scale. The fast maturing, dense bud structure of the easy-to-grow Indica soon dominated the indoor growing scene.
Indica strains also have a truebreeding “dioecious” nature, meaning that individual plants tend to be male or female only, but not both. In contrast, many Sativa strains show hermaphroditic tendencies indoors, with male and female flowers on the same plant. (It is my opinion that wild Sativa strains of cannabis are primarily truebreeding hermaphroditic varieties.)
The use of indoor growing systems to produce high quality buds has caused the Indica varieties to become more popular and in higher demand than its Sativa counterparts. Many growers and cloners experimented with Sativa/Indica crosses.
These Sativa/Indica crosses have the best of both worlds: the good Sativa flavor and the cleaner high associated with the Indica bud structure. However this desirability only lasts for a few generations of breeding. Unless a person is breeding for a very specific trait, crosses seven generations and beyond the original P1 Indica/Sativa cross lose much of their original charm and desirability. Cloning, however, helps to extend a plant’s potential.
The Ruderalis Myth
As indoor growers were attempting to improve the genetic lines of their marijuana strains through breeding, another interesting phenomenon occurred: Ruderalis.
There is a wild variety identified as Ruderalis in Russia (”Ruderalis” is supposedly Russian for “by the side of the road”) that grows very short and matures very fast. I really doubt that someone actually went to Russia to collect seeds of this variety to use for breeding. But if they actually did go all the way to Russia to find, collect and smuggle these “rudy” seeds back to the United States, I would feel sorry for their waste of time and effort because they could have gotten the same worthless stains of seeds in Minnesota, Saskatchewan or Manitoba in Canada with much less hassle. These varities grow well in colder environments, have a shorter growing time (due to the shorter summer season), and but have much smaller low quality yields which taste awful and have terrible highs.
After the Indica varieties arrived in the US and became incorporated into the gene pool, many breeders began to cross the earliest maturing individuals with each other in hopes of shortening the maturation cycle. One particular Indica strain improved consistently over time and this genetically inhanced strain became known as American Ruderalis. This strain had a quick growing pattern similar to the Russian Ruderalis, but it produced higher quality more potent buds and was totally genetically unrelated to Russian Ruderalis. High Times accidentally named this particular Indica strain as Ruderalis after falsely identifying this strain as belonging to the Ruderalis family.
Therefore be sure that you are dealing with good, genetically engineered American Ruderalis strain and not the true Russian Ruderalis which is tolerant to cold, harsh climates, but has a low-yield and bad results.
The same applies to many of the Indica dominant varieties available today. Breeders selecting for early, fast flowering or fast growth often miss out on some of the finer and more subtle characteristics available from crossing certain genotypes. My advice to breeders is to wait until the finished product is suitably tested before coming to any conclusions regarding desirable candidates for future breeding consideration.
Phenotypic Expression
The malleability of phenotypic expression among the Sativa/Indica crosses must also be noted. The variability of phenotypic expression among the f2 generation of a truly polar (pure Sativa/pure Indica) P1 cross is quite phenomenal. The second generation f2 crosses will exhibit the full spectrum of possibilities between the original parents – extreme Indica, extreme Sativa, and everything in between.
However, regardless of any particular phenotype selected from among this given f2 cross, future generations may drift radically. Depending on the presence (or lack) of a number of environmental triggers, an f2 Indica phenotype may be coaxed more toward Sativa traits, or an f2 Sativa phenotype may be coaxed more toward Indica expression. The key is environmental conditions.
This is what distinguishes the truebreeding, ancient acclimated, region of origin varieties – especially the tropical and equatorial Sativa – from the crosses that have happened since. The ancient specimens have a much narrower genotype range, and therefore a more specific phenotype than their contemporary crosses despite environmental conditions. It is up to future adventurers to provide the best possible environmental considerations, along with the best possible genetic considerations, in order to resurrect the legendary happy flowers of yore.
Inducing Sativa
After many years of first-hand experience breeding marijuana indoors as well as outdoors, I am of the opinion that the two most influential factors involving phenotypic variation and expression among current indoor herb breeding projects are the photoperiod (hours of light per day) and the angle of light in relationship to the growing plant.Specifically, I find the single most powerful influence to the Indica dominant phenotype is the traditional 18/6 veggie cycle and 12/12 flowering cycle. The 18/6 veggie and 12/12 flower cycle is an attempt, however poor, to mimic the Indica-producing photoperiod. It is my belief that this light cycle strongly influences for Indica phenotypic expression.
Sativa phenotype characteristics will manifest under a more equatorial photoperiod, closer to a 13/11 veggie cycle and an 11/13 flower cycle. This is the light timing range to use to elicit more Sativa dominant expression from your plants.
As for the exact photoperiod formula that I incorporate into my growing/breeding regime, this will presently remain a trade secret. My advice is to experiment with different photoperiods, keep good notes and pay attention. Avoid the 18/6 and 12/12 photoperiods, while tweaking the times a bit differently with each breeding cycle until more desirable results in the finished product and their offspring are noted. Here is a hint: work in half-hour increments or a little less.
Angle of Light
Angle of light simply refers to the physical angle of light source the plant is dependent upon for growth. Perhaps the greatest difference between indoor and outdoor environments has to do with the angle of light received by the plant. This is also one of the greatest seasonal differences between the Sativa and Indica producing regions.
Outdoors, the main light source is the Sun, with minor influence coming from nearby reflective surfaces. As a plant grows taller and broader outdoors, that angle of light from the sun changes very little in relationship to the growing plant.
Seasonal changes in angle of light increase the further away from the equator one gets. At the equator there is the least amount of seasonal change in angle of light, only about 20°, whereas at the 45th parallel that change is as great as 45°. At the 45th latitude, the Summer Sun is high in the sky while during early Spring and late Fall the sunlight comes from much lower in the sky. The farther one goes from the equator, the greater the difference in seasonal changes regarding angle of light.
Indoors, the lights typically range from a few inches to several feet from the plant. As the plant grows taller, its physical relationship to the bulb’s angle of light changes considerably. Most indoor grow rooms have relatively low ceilings, therefore, raising the bulbs may maintain a similar angle of light early on, but eventually the angle changes. The same differences may be noted among plants directly below the bulb and the plants off to the side of the room farther away from the bulb.
Circular light shuttles tend to emulate the arctic summer and create a confusing signal completely unknown to the equatorial Sativa. Straight-track overhead light shuttles are more conducive to inducing the Sativa phenotype.
Aromatics and flavors
Many indoor growers try to get their budding plants as close to the light source as possible. Though this may increase bulk production of both bud and trichome, I find that this practice tends to destroy many of the finer aromatic qualities of the herb.Buds too close to the light tend to express nothing beyond the lower lemon/lime aromas of the fruity spectrum. Sometimes the aroma is no better than a strong chemical/astringent odor and flavor, especially those under High Pressure Sodium light systems. The finer berry flavors tend to favor more distance from the bulb, and will manifest more strongly under High Ultraviolet Metal Halide light systems, especially during the latter stages of flowering.
Something akin to a gymnasium building with high ceilings and super 5000W lights hung far from the growing plants, set at a Sativa-tweaked photoperiod, would be the ultimate indoor grow-op to coax Sativa phenotypes.
The Great Outdoors
Nothing will ever rival the great outdoors for ultra-high volume cannabis production. With growing outdoors you need to work with seeds that will grow well in the geographic area and the surrounding growing environment. Some strains thrive better in areas than others. Some strains grow better outdoors in lower elevations next to water, while others grow better high up on hills or mountains. The natural genetic lines of these outdoor plants will dictate the size and quality of the harvest. Often times chosing a proper growing location for a particular outdoor strain requires a long process of trial and error.
Equatorial Sativa varieties are of interest for quality herb production (Thailand, Oaxaca, Colombia, Central Africa, etc.) as the Indica zones are more renowned for hashish production. Parts of Nepal tend to produce both excellent hashish and fine Sativa buds, with some plants even living for longer than two years.
Great Strains
Durban Poison - original African strain, from the Rift Valley. This makes it a real good outdoor marijuana strain. A great marijuana plant for hot temperatures. A tight bud Sativa with a candy smell and an up high. One of the most reliable early outdoor varieties, it will produce chunky, solid buds even during the worst season. Durban Poison is one of the easiest-to-grow, highest-quality early varieties in the world.
Outdoor marijuana strain
Type : Sativa
Yield : up to 200 gram / square meter
Height : 120-150 cm
Climate : indoor / outdoor
Flowering period 8 wk’s
Harvest : end of September
Haze is the original sativa from Jamaica. Haze is a bushy tall plant with leggy stems and log gold tingued buds with narrow leaves. The THC ratio of haze sativa is always high, so the buds might be small but they are very potent. These haze marijuana plants can grow huge when given enough space, so yields can be high!
Indoor
Type : Sativa
Yield : up to 200 gram / square meter
Height : 150-180 cm
Climate : indoor
Flowering period 10/12 wk’s
Purple buds on this plant give it a special taste and smell. It is a powerful purple marijuana strain with sativa overtones.
It is a very hardy plant and can be grown outdoors in the worst climates. Its ancestors are Holland’s Hope crossed with Skunk#1. A powerful high sativa odour. Purple marijuana has a sweet and sour taste.
Outdoor Marijuana
Type : sativa
Yield : up to 200 gram / square meter
Height : 150-170 cm
Climat : outdoor
Flowering period 8 wk’s
White Widow marijuana strain is the strongest weed in the world. It sets the standard for white strains. This legend was born in the 1990’s. They grow tall with delicate arms. White widow marijuana buds have so much THC on them that it is hard to see the bud at all. The white widow marijuana high is extreme and the taste divine. White widow marijuana seeds have won more Cannabis Cups than any before. On the top of all dutch coffeeshop menu’s (mostly the most expensive!) is white widow marijuana seeds and white widow marijuana strains. The buzz is powerful and energetic, yet social. A must for anyone who thinks they are a smoker.
Indoor White Widow Marijuana
Type : Indica / sativa mix
Yield : up to 250 gram / square meter
Height : 50-80 cm
Climate : indoor
Flowering period 8/9 wk’s
Northern Lights marijuana strain has big broad leaves and large buds always covered with crystals. Highly adapted for indoor growing. A strong earthy taste. Northern Lights marijuana is not a big plant growing to about 1.5 m outdoors. It is a good plant for the indoor growers, its a classic northern lights marijuana plant and one of the most smoked and grown in Holland.
Indoor / Outdoor
Type : Indica
Yield : up to 125 gram / square meter
Height : 100-125 cm
Climate : indoor / greenhouse / outdoor
Flowering period 6-8 wk’s
Many novice growers use seeds because it’s easy and seeds are more readily available in most places than cloned marijuana plants. They simply go through the last couple of bags that they have purchased and save all the seeds. This generally seems to be the way in most part of the United States. However, out here in Sonoma County most of the stuff around here was grown from clones and therefore you will never, ever find a seed. It’s also relatively easy to purchase cloned plants at your local dispensary if you have a medicinal prescription or caregiver’s license.
There are many advantages to growing from clones. First of all you are most likely guaranteed that all plants will be female therefore you will never have any seeds and will not have to remove any male plants. Secondly the clones are most likely taken from a stronger, high yielding plant and therefore you will harvest more bud sooner. Clones are virtually an exact copy of the mother plant so you know generally what type of plant you will be getting rather than having to guess with seeds.
The most popular clones are generally ultra high yielding, fast growning, potent, strong plants that have been bred overtime to produce higher volume, quality bud. Some strains like Purple Mercy are widely available, others like Cheese are more coveted and harder to come by.
Some growers raise plants with the sole purpose of selling the clones. They keep their plants on an 18 hour light cycle and never allow their plants to flower. They make good money selling either freshly cut clones or the more expensive rooted clones.
Cloning from Seeds
Many people opt to purchase a tray of cuttings when starting out, so they get a faster return on their investment
and are able to grow the plants faster. This is sensible, but there is no substitute for learning, and growing from seed teaches you more about the plant. Growing from seed, especially from high numbers of seeds, allows for the selection of a particular plant that best suits your needs.
Be sure that the marijuana plant you are cloning from has no pests, fungus, or disease, as this will infect the clones as well.
I always tell people who start from seed to be sure to take two clones from the bottom of each plant just before putting the plants into flower. These clones should be labeled with the same number as the mother plant from which it was taken, as well as the date it was cut. Keep those clones alive!
When you see which plant produces the best buds and is most worthy of your precious grow space, take the corresponding clones and grow them large under your metal halide on an eighteen hour light cycle. Your next crop can be all cuttings from your favorite plant. This harvest will be much more uniform than the last one, and this will improve the quality and quantity of your yield.
If you grow you should eventually cut and root your own clones. There are many ways to take clones, and I am going to share the simple procedure that I use to take mine. It’s easy to do, especially once you get a feel for it.
How to Take the Cuttings
The best clones are taken from the bottom third of the plant. This is done because the leaves are larger and stronger, and by removing the bottom leaves more light and air can get to the lower part of the plant, making more budsites and giving a higher yield.
To cut clones, pick a plant that has been in the vegetative stage for at least 6 - 8 weeks. Choose the branches that are at least 4″ - 6″ long, with the fullest leaves and the thickest stems. Cut the clones (branches) close to the node.
To get started you will need the following:
a razor blade,
a water sprayer,
a planting tray,
planting medium (peat pellets),
a jar of rooting hormone (Schultz take root)*.
* Clones can be effectively rooted using nothing more than water, however most growers choose to dip their freshly cut stem into either a rooting powder or a gel.
Many growers cut the branch underwater so that no air bubbles will form in the stem of the new cutting. If air enters the stem it will prevent the stem from carrying water and the cutting will die.
Dipping the cut end of the stem immediately into a rooting gel also solves the air bubble problem. If using a powder the cuttings must be wet so that the powder will adhere.
Use a toothpick or a nail to poke a hole in the planting medium, to ease the entry of the cut stem. It is important not to crush or bend the tender stem at all. Try and make the hole about the same size as the stem to be inserted.
When you have your tools and accessories ready and have soaked your medium, you should select a soft, small branch from the bottom of the plant, one that wouldn’t amount to much anyway. If you are planning to keep the plant in vegetative growth to continue taking cuttings then you should take cuttings from any shoots that have two or three nodes. I take cuttings that are between two and four inches long, but some people prefer to take cuttings as long as eight inches.
The stem will root quickly if it is still soft and green, not woody. Make an even, diagonal slice through the branch with your clean razor, below the would-be cutting. Strip the bottom leaves off of the cutting, dip it in rooting gel and plant it. This diagonal cut ensures good rooting along the cut stem.
If you make your cut right above a node on the branch then two new branches will sprout out as if it had been pinched. If you continue in this fashion then your mother will produce an exponential number of cuttings every two weeks. You will soon be proudly giving clones away to your friends (or maybe Sell them).
How to Root the Cuttings
So now you’ve cut and dipped your first batch of clones, stuck them in a medium, sprayed them with water, and put the clear plastic lid on the tray. Now put the tray under fluorescent lights, about six inches away to start with, moving them a little closer every few days. These lights can be placed very close to the cloning tray, to keep the clones from stretching.
I’ve rooted clones on the floor in my bedroom, and in many a veg room in the shade of a leafy mother. Both provide decent ambient light and a good temperature range. 74 degrees Farenheit or 24 degrees Celcius is optimum temperature, but my experience is that as long as it’s close to that it’ll do. The clones must be warm but not scorched. Direct light will burn them because without roots the stem cannot supply the leaves with enough water to match the leaves’ rate of transpiration.
Transpiration is a part of how the plant grows. Water and nutrients travel up the stem from the roots to the leaves, where they are used in photosynthesis. Tiny hairs called stomata sweat out the moisture to allow the stream of nutrients to continue flowing. Wind aids in transpiration by blowing the moisture off the stomata, which is why the lid is so important.
Another way to protect the stomata is to spray a light wax onto the cuttings. This slows transpiration to the point where you don’t even need a lid, and the waxy coating serves as a protection against pests. I suggest you just try using a lid at first.
Remove the lid once a day and fan the cuttings with it for a few seconds. I also like to cut small holes into the corners of the lid so that there is a little ventilation, and I usually put holes into the corners of the tray to allow for drainage if the plants are over-watered. The roots need oxygen to thrive and survive.
Growing Supplies
The medium can be of your choice - water or soil, rockwool, perlite or coco coir. Rooting hormone can be anything from boiled willow bark, to a dissolved aspirin, to the more expensive powder, liquid, or gel form. A clone tray can be anything from one made from any divided tray with a high top, to a professional cloning set - up. A cover is essential, as the high humidity inside the tray promotes growth.
Oasis Foam is my favourite medium because it is so airy and quick to dry, and it has the added bonus of having a neutral pH balance. Olivia’s is my favourite rooting gel, although I’ve tried many and they all work. I find that just soaking the tray before planting is usually sufficient to sustain the cuttings until they are rooted.
There are a number of nutritional additives that may be added to this soaking, but my experience is that they are not essential. You might try Spray & Thrive, Nutriboost, Powerthrive, Superthrive, Olivia’s cloning solution, a mild seaweed solution, or a plethora of other products. Plain water works well too.
After Cutting Care
When the tray feels light water it. If the plants look dry, mist them. Check the bottom for roots after three days. Some strains will root this fast, while others may take up to ten days, or even two weeks. When roots are showing out of the sides and bottom of the medium it is time to transplant them into whatever medium you choose to grow them in.
Generally, your medium will be a pot with a well drained soil mixture, or one of any number of soiless cultures. The latter are definitely an improvement over soil when it comes to speed of production and overall yield, but it is much easier to grow marijuana in soil.
It is not that difficult to set up and operate a hydroponic system, but one detail like a faulty irrigation timer can cause devastation if not immediately corrected.
The hydroponic solution must be monitored closely and kept balanced, while a well prepared soil solution may not need any additional fertilizers for the entire life of the plant. As long as you water the soil when it gets dry the plant will thrive and be happy.
Soil-grown pot is considered by many to have a more palatable taste than hydroponically grown herb, but there are always exceptions to such rules. Some growers get the best of both worlds by experimenting with organic hydroponics, but most use basic stock solutions that contain fertilizer salts in a readily available form. These salts are easy to administer in tried-and-true formulas, but the problem is that these stock solutions tend to leave a metallic taste in the precious produce. Experienced growers know to leach their plants before harvest to remove residual salts from the buds, but it appears that few bother to leach sufficiently for a truly clean, pure taste.
A milder feed solution will prevent the build-up of excess fertilizer salts in the bud. Leaching time varies from grower to grower, from two days to two weeks. Some use plain or distilled water, others simply use a very diluted feed solution.
With care and attention, the clones will develop a root system in 2 - 4 weeks, and will be ready for transplant into soil or hydro.
Clones are Great
Whatever grow system you use, you are bound to use clones sooner or later. They can greatly improve the efficiency of your growing area, and are a fantastic way to preserve your favorite plants.
An exceptional plant can be rejuvenated and cloned even after it has flowered and been harvested. If a small amount of vegetative matter is left growing on the bottom of the plant and it is placed under an eighteen hour light cycle then all the little nuggets will stretch into vegetative shoots, which may then be cloned and grown into a full mother plant, which can be cloned indefinitely. This will provide you with many uniform harvests of your favorite plant.
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