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The word Hydroponics originates from the ancient Hanging Gardens of Babylon and comes from the Greek words, Hydro meaning water and Ponics meaning working.

Today newer variations of this ancient technology are used to grow top grade indoor plants, premium vegetables, fruits, and herbs.

Using hydroponics the physiological requirements of the plants can be met without the use of soil or natural sunlight. Plants are reooted in an inert medium and nutrition is provided to the plant by water soluable mineral elements.

With use of proper nutrients and the right artificial light source, hydroponic gardners can achieve amazing results. These plants can have an ideal environment because the grower can control exactly which nutrients the plant receives.

To completely control a plants environment you must control the volume and duration of light, the temperature, the water, the CO2, the oxygen, the pH and the nutrients that the plant receives.

Starting Out

First you will need to choose a gardening system and a light source.

Hydroponics are relatively low maintenance and are highly efficient. You need to check the pH and top the water level off every other day and change the nutrients every 7-10 days, but other than that you can just set up timers to handle the lighting and ventilation systems.

The best form of hydroponics are “Deep Water” systems, meaning that the plant roots will grow right down into the bubbling solution. This is the purest form of hydroponics because the roots are exposed directly to the nutrient solution. This type of system also uses a small air pump to keep the solution well oxygenated.

One popular method of hydroponic gardening is the Ebb & Flow or Flood Tray system. These systems are ideal for multiple plants and are very easy to use.

These ebb & flow growing trays are flooded automatically by a submersed pump connected to a digital timer. Growing medium and roots are soaked when the tray fills up. Rockwool is usually the medium used with these systems.

Unlike growing in soil, these hydroponic methods allow the grower exact control over plants’ nutrient, water and oxygen intake. Better control over these factors means faster, healthier growth. A large percentage of our produce, such as tomatoes cucumbers and lettuce are grown commercially using hydroponics.

Light is the most important factor in plant growth. Most herbs and vegetables would like to receive as much light as they can get, therefore place your garden in the brightest window available. If you do not have a spot with plenty of sunlight, you can add a fluorescent light to increase intensity and extend daylight.

Propagation

There are three basic methods of starting or “propagating” plants. They are seed germination, rooting stem cuttings (cloning), and tissue culture, which is an advanced form of cloning by cell division. Although tissue culture kits are available to the home hobbyist, this section will concentrate on the simpler, more popular methods, starting with seed germination, also know as sexual propagation.

Rockwool is the most popular medium for germinating seeds hydroponically. Loose, or granulated Rockwool can be placed in a standard plastic starting tray, and seeds are spread evenly spaced on top of the medium. The seeds are covered with a thin layer of Rockwool or Perlite and the tray is covered to prevent moisture loss. The loose Rockwool makes it easy thin, separate, and transplant seedlings. Even more popular than granulated Rockwool, are one inch Rockwool starting cubes. A flat containing 98 detachable cubes fits into a standard propagation tray. The Rockwool is soaked and pH balanced and one seed is placed into a 1/4 ” deep hole provided in the centre of each cube. The seeds are then covered with a thin layer of Perlite or vermiculite and the lid is placed on the tray. Once the seeds have sprouted, the cubes are easily broken off and placed into larger growing cubes or other aggregate.

Another method of propagation is cloning, or asexual propagation. Stem cuttings from most types of plants can be rooted in seven to fourteen days, producing a plant which is an exact genetic duplication of the original, or “mother” plant. Plants started in this way will mature much earlier than ones started from seed, saving valuable time and producing shorter, bushier plants.

Depending on the type of plant, each mother could produce tens, or even hundreds of identical offspring every couple of months. Asexual propagation is an invaluable tool used for many commercial greenhouse crops, as well as for hobby gardens. Without question, the fastest and easiest way to root stem cuttings is hydroponically. Some methods incorporate extra aeration.

Air pumps or moistening devices provide stems with ample amounts of oxygen and water. Oxygen is vital to root development. The most common method used to root cuttings hydroponically is in one inch Rockwool cubes. The flat of cubes is pH balanced and soaked in a diluted, high phosphorus nutrient solution, then placed in a standard propagation tray. Using a clean, sharp blade, cut off a small branch consisting of a growing tip, two or three leaves, and 2″ to 4″ of stem.

As you take the clippings, let them stand in water until you have as many as you need. Before dipping in a rooting compound, make a fresh cut on each stem, just above the first cut. After dipping, insert the stem, about one inch deep into the rooting cube. Cover the tray with a clear plastic dome to retain humidity and give the plants 18 hours of diffused light per day. Remove the cover for a few minutes each day to give the plants fresh air and to avoid damping off. Mist the cuttings periodically with a mild foliar feed like kelp extract. To see if the clippings have rooted, give the stems a very gentle tug. The clones should be transplanted soon after roots have formed.

Tips on Propagating Seeds

- Ideal temperature 75 degree F to 85 degrees F.
- Ideal humidity 80% to 90% Relative.
- Remove humidity tent daily.
- 24 hours light until first true leaves appear.

Tips on Propagating Stem Cuttings

- Use a 6″ humidity dome.
- Provide 18 hours of light a day.
- Use rooting hormones-Wilson roots, Stim Roots, Willow water.
- Remove the largest leaves to avoid wilting.
- Remove humidity tent permanently after 10 days.

Hydroponic Solutions

Always check the pH and adjust if necessary to 5.8 - 6.3. Check and maintain an optimum nutrient level.

Hydroponic solutions contain the same types of nutrients that plants receive from the soil. These nutrients include:

NITROGEN (N)
PHOSPHORUS (P)
POTASSIUM (K)
BORON (B)
CALCIUM (Ca)
IRON (Fe)
MAGNESIUM (Mg)
MANGANESE (Mn)
MOLYBDENUM (Mb)
SULPHUR (S)
ZINC (Zn)

How to Set up a Hydroponic Garden

WATER CULTURE SYSTEM

Convert an aquarium into a simple hydroponic system. The plants are suspended on a floating Styrofoam platform. This system is popular for classrooms because the roots of the plants are visible hanging below the floating platform.

Materials Required:

AQUARIUM - Any water tight container with fairly vertical sides will work. Light breaks down the nutrient solution and encourages algae growth so if you us an aquarium you will need to construct a light shield out of cardboard or aluminum foil to keep light out of the reservoir (aquarium). If you wish to view the roots make the light shield (or part of it) removable.

FLOATING PLATFORM - You will need a piece of Styrofoam 1 1/2″ to 2″ thick. Cut Styrofoam to fit loosely inside the aquarium (or whatever you are using for a reservoir).

PLASTIC CUPS - Use several small plastic or Styrofoam cups to hold the plants on the floating platform. (NOTE: We usually use Solo brand 3oz. plastic bathroom cups, but you can use any small plastic cup as long as it has tapered sides).

GROWING MEDIUM - You will need a small amount of growing medium, enough to fill the plastic cups. (NOTE: The Professor recommends using Perlite or a perlite / Vermiculite mix for the growing medium).

AIR PUMP AND AIR STONE - You need to use an air pump and airstone to oxygenate the nutrient solution. A regular air pump designed for an aquarium is all that is required.

HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER * - A good quality hydroponic fertilizer is required, regular “dirt” fertilizers do not contain essential “micro-nutrients”. For more information about the differences in hydroponic and “dirt” fertilizers CLICK HERE.

pH TEST KIT * - You will need some way of checking and adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution.

*Note: Simply Hydroponics and Organics has an inexpensive “Starter kit” that consists of quality hydroponic fertilizer, a liquid pH test kit (good for hundreds of tests) two bottles of liquid pH adjuster (1 pint pH up, 1 pint pH down) and Instructions. CLICK HERE for additional information.

ASSEMBLY OF SYSTEM

Cut the Styrofoam float to fit the reservoir. Cut the float a little smaller than the opening so that it won’t bind up when the water level changes.

Cut the holes in the float to the proper size for the plastic cups that you are using, you want the bottoms of the cups to hang below the bottom of the float but not fall through. (NOTE: We usually use Solo brand 3oz. plastic bathroom cups, these require a 1 7/8″ to 2″ hole.

Cut several holes (aprox. 1/8″ to 1/4″ dia.) in the bottom of your plastic cups. Add growing medium to the cup (NOTE: if the growing medium falls out through the holes you can put a small piece of fiberglass window screen or small piece of cloth over the holes before adding the growing medium. For more information about Growing Mediums CLICK HERE).

Plant your seedling, rooted cutting or seed in the growing medium.

CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS

Fill the aquarium (reservoir) with water. Mix your nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH and adjust accordingly. NOTE: The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant. For more information on pH, CLICK HERE.

Attach 1/4″ airline to the air stone and place airstone in reservoir. Attach free end of tubing to air pump and plug in air pump to outlet, make sure that there are bubbles coming from the air stone. (NOTE: NEVER submerge the air pump in water as electrical shock could occur).

Place floating platform on top of the nutrient solution. Put plastic cups into the holes in the floating platform.

When the plants have used up about half of the nutrient solution you can add WATER ONLY to bring the level back up (do not add fertilizer or you could cause a nutrient build up that could harm the plants). Recheck pH and adjust if necessary.

When the plants have used half of the nutrient solution for the second time you need to change out the nutrient solution by draining the reservoir and then mix a fresh batch. Use the old nutrient solution on house plants or other vegetation.

EBB & FLOW SYSTEM (FLOOD and DRAIN)

This system uses two 5 gallon buckets (or equivalent), one filled with growing medium and the other holds the nutrient solution.

The plants are watered by lifting the bucket containing the nutrient solution, this allows the nutrient solution flows into the bucket containing the growing medium and Plant(s). To drain, simply lower the nutrient bucket and gravity drains the nutrient solution back into the reservoir (see drawing on left).

Materials Required:

2 - 5 GALLON BUCKETS (or equivalent water tight plastic container). Make sure that the buckets don’t have any leaks.

GROWING MEDIUM - The Professor favors straight Perlite or a Perlite / Vermiculite mix for this system, however there is a vast variety of growing mediums that will work well. For more information about growing medium CLICK HERE.

FLEXIBLE VINYL TUBING - You need a length of flexible tubing long enough for the buckets to be moved as in the drawing above (3 or 4 feet is usually enough).

FIBERGLASS WINDOW SCREEN - You will need a small amount of fiberglass window screen (12″ x 12″).

You will need a small amount of fiberglass window screen (12″ x 12″).

GRAVEL - You will need enough gravel to cover the bottom of your growing container approximately 2 or 3 inches. Use a fairly coarse gravel ( 3/4 to 1 inch diameter). NOTE: A 5 gallon bucket needs about a gallon of gravel to reach this level.

HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER * - A good quality hydroponic fertilizer is required, regular “dirt” fertilizers do not contain essential “micro-nutrients”. For more information about the differences in hydroponic and “dirt” fertilizers CLICK HERE.

pH TEST KIT *- You will need some way of checking and adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution.

*Note: Simply Hydroponics and Organics has an inexpensive “Starter kit” that consists of quality hydroponic fertilizer, a liquid pH test kit (good for hundreds of tests) two bottles of liquid pH adjuster (1 pint pH up, 1 pint pH down) and Instructions. CLICK HERE for additional information.

ASSEMBLY OF SYSTEM

Drill holes in the CLEAN plastic buckets on the side approximately 1/2″ above the bottom of the bucket. NOTE: The size of the holes will depend on the size of the tubing that you use. We suggest that you use 1/2 ” i.d. tubing,for this you will need to drill a 1/2″ hole.

Insert tubing into the holes of both buckets approximately 2″. Test the assembly for leaks by placing the buckets side by side and filling with water. (NOTE: The tubing should fit tightly so that their are no leaks, if you do have a leak from where the tubing connects to the bucket you can seal it from the inside of the bucket with some R.T.V. “Silicone” sealant, if you use silicon follow the directions on the packaging and allow the sealant cure overnight before proceeding to step #3).

Empty the water out of the assembly and place the gravel into the bottom of one of the buckets. This will be the Planter, the other bucket will be the reservoir.

Place the window screen over the top of the gravel. Fold the excess over or you can trim the screen with a pair of scissors. The screen acts as a filter to keep the growing medium in place. So try to fit the screen as close to the sides of the bucket as you can. You don’t have to have a perfect fit, but the better the screen fits the less growing medium will get washed into the reservoir when you drain the system during the “Ebb” cycle. In fact if too much growing medium gets through the screen it can actually clog the fill/drain tube.

Add the growing medium to the bucket. (NOTE: you will need to wash and / or pre-soak the growing medium before adding to the system, depending on the type of growing medium that you are using. For more information about Growing Mediums CLICK HERE).

Plant your seedling, rooted cutting or seed in the growing medium. NOTE: The Professor recommends starting your seeds separately and then adding the seedling(s) to the system.

CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS

Put the planter on the platform* and leave the reservoir in the “lowered” position.

* TIP: If you don’t have a platform there is an easy way to make one: Stand two standard masonry blocks on end and place a board big enough to hold both buckets on top.

Fill your reservoir with water and mix the nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH of the nutrient solution and adjust accordingly (NOTE: The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant and the kind of growing medium. For more information on pH, CLICK HERE). Cover the reservoir with a loose fitting lid to keep out debris. It is a good idea to aerate the nutrient solution with an air pump and air stone to keep it from stagnating.

To feed and water your plant(s) simply lift the reservoir bucket and set it on the platform next to the planter bucket. Wait a few minutes and then lower the reservoir back down. CAUTION: a full 5 gallon bucket weighs about 40 pounds, if you can’t lift that much make smaller amounts of nutrient solution.

Repeat step #9 periodically, how often you need to do a watering cycle depends on several variables, size and type of plants, type of growing medium, weather conditions, etc., making watering cycles a bit of a guessing game, however with this type of system it is hard to over water so when in doubt…DO IT.

Check the pH of the nutrient solution every couple of days and adjust if needed.

When the plants have used up about half of the nutrient solution you can add WATER ONLY to bring the level back up (do not add fertilizer or you could cause a nutrient build up that could harm the plants). Recheck pH and adjust if necessary.

When the plants have used half of the nutrient solution for the second time you need to change out the nutrient solution by draining the reservoir and then mix a fresh batch (as per step #8 above). Use the old nutrient solution on house plants or other vegetation.